2015, full of external factors, is full of turbulence, but everyone is still looking forward to the new model in 16 years. Fortunately, the brand also live up to expectations, Pre-S.I.H.H. Styles can already feel a lot of highlights, and various brands have said that they still retain more attractive styles will be announced at the exhibition site, it is really itchy.
The event is coming, the brand releases a new kind of fire
The 26th Geneva International Haute Horlogerie S.I.H.H. (The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), which will be held from January 18 to 22, 2016, has exhibited a few new models in advance. In the past, most of the preview styles were based on the revisions of existing styles. Most of the major brands will be announced at the exhibition site again, but from the current Pre-SIHH styles, many topics have appeared, such as Earl’s Union 700P movement with mechanical gear train and quartz elements, Van Cleef & Arpels movement watch with swallow and butterfly relay indicating time, etc.
In addition to the release of new models, brands have not forgotten to reveal some styles and selling points to make watch fans fire. Roger Dubuis announced in advance that 2016 will be the year of women’s watches. At present, in addition to changing the special carbon fiber and resin Excalibur The self-winding skeleton watch is in addition to the men’s watch. Two gorgeous Velvet jewelry watches can already see the brand’s annual trend; Audemars Piguet also said that there will be many new releases of gold material, continuing the release of rose gold and stainless steel perpetual calendar models at the end of the year. , The subsequent version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Gold Material became the style that led to the ’16 Golden Age ‘. IWC boldly shouted to watch fans on W & W and will launch models with better C / P values. From the brand’s SIHH invitation letter, the aircraft pattern is not difficult to guess. The 2016 Pilot series will be the main brand. And the new Pre-SIHH is also true. The large pilot with a diameter of 48mm or even 55mm looks back at the early style. The special edition of Little Prince who has been applauded since its release has also been released with a new calendar function. Mark XVIII also returned to the simple design, which is bound to become the best target for the collection of old watch fans and the entry of new watch fans.
In 2016, Jaeger-LeCoultre ushered in the 85th anniversary of Reverso. As one of the most representative square watch series in the watch industry, the reversible case is the best. The series was the first to release three models, including the classic two-pin, Dual time zones and full-calendar moon phases, each with different sizes and neutral designs, can be captured by both male and female collectors. Cartier, which has been under pressure for 15 years, is also the brand that has released the most new models. According to the three major annual themes announced, including skeleton watches by Clé De Cartier and Crash, puma’s dynamic storage and jewellery watches, mysterious watches, Rotonde de Cartier’s earth and moon tourbillon, day and night moon phase retrograde watch are both replaced with more luxurious materials, the former with a theme with a meteorite and dial, full of space, the latter is set with gems, more gorgeous.
Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie series seems to have locked the route of cost-effective and complex styles. Following the annual calendar, full calendar, time between the two places and the perpetual calendar, the annual calendar chronograph is now introduced to convert the price within RMB 140,000. It also focuses on relative relatives. threshold. As for the three-hand date, the traditional layout has been changed. Inspired by the 1950s chronograph from Minerva Manufacture, the small second dial and date dial are specially configured like binocular chronograph dials, with unique features.
Independent watchmaking stationed in S.I.H.H.
One of the highlights of 2016 S.I.H.H. is the presence of 9 independent watch brands, which also increased the number of S.I.H.H. exhibitors to 24. These 9 independent brands include CHRISTOPHE CLARET, DE BETHUNE, H. MOSER & CIE, HAUTLENCE, HYT, LAUREN FERRIER, MB & F, URWERK and VOUTILAINEN, forming the first ‘Carré des Horlogers’. In fact, S.I.H.H.’s product demographics and high-end positioning are originally close to independent watchmaking to a certain extent. Now S.I.H.H. invites this group of masters with excellent skills to help out, it is bound to attract more attention.
In contrast, due to the limited marketing budget of independent watchmaking in the past, compared to brands with strong financial aid from the Group, they can hardly stand up in the two major watch exhibitions. Individual invitations to the media or VIPs for appreciation have limited exposure and publicity effects. Although the ‘entry fee’ for joining SIHH is high, sharing by 9 brands may still be acceptable. It is the most direct and close way to reach customers, and it is the business to actively expand the brand reputation. Long-term plan.
R & D firepower is expected to be concentrated
Related to S.I.H.H. is also WATCHES & WONDERS in mid-September. Since the launch of W & W, I can feel that the number of new products released by S.I.H.H. brands is relatively small (of course, there are special cases like Cartier Bailai only showing sea pressure), and I feel that I will stay with W & W.
Among them, Audemars Piguet is the brand that first stated that it would not participate in the exhibition in 15 years, with less support from the big names, and some people even joked that it would not be there in 2016. There will be no W & W. It can be seen that although the semi-annual new watch exposure cycle stimulates the freshness of buyers to a certain extent, it may also cause a burden on the brand’s research and development schedule. After all, high-end watches are not fashion brands that need to publish seasonal fashion frequently, and sometimes they are eager to be active. Introducing multiple models, it is better to reserve enough time to prepare a watch that is enough to support a year. After the exhibition, it was also reported that it will be changed into a biennial exhibition. The details have not yet been finalized, but it is certain that W & W will still exist, but the periodic form has not been confirmed. If the exhibition period can indeed be extended, the brand should be able to return to the main focus of research and development again, without having to be exhausted, watch fans can also have greater expectations for the brand’s annual new models.
Chronology of Zodiac Monkeys
At the end of the year, according to Chinese customers who are still the market staples, more and more brands are launching zodiac watches. The first is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art series of gold sculptures. The Breguet who joined the zodiac battle later was based on Reine de Naples. Cameo Monkey uses shell carving to present. The most complicated function is Blancpain’s Chinese calendar monkey watch. The Count once again invited Master Anita Porchet, who is proficient in all enamel techniques, to draw grey wool monkeys with filigree enamel; Hai Rui Winston used the brand’s softness Tonality, with pink mother-of-pearl and horse-eye-shaped hollowed-out golden monkeys, the savage monkeys displayed by the Athenian golden monkey enamel watch are quite active. Jacques Delo’s zodiac watch with deep roots in China is quite justified, and the brand lived up to expectations. It released two models of gold sculpture and micro-painted enamel in one breath, showing the breadth and height of craftsmanship, and different attitudes.
Other zodiac watch brands worth noting include Panerai, which has been making animal watches for many years. The two-tone gold and paper-cut totems have the most Chinese style, and there are also specific collectors who are interested in international auctions. How the picture will appear is yet to be announced by the brand.