It is not too late to get to the topic. Not long ago, I saw foreign players discussing a very interesting and technical topic, ‘a major revolutionary watch during the 1990s.’ In the 1990s, it was once considered a ‘wasteland’ in the watch industry, because the impact of the quartz watch in the 1980s had just passed, and luxury mechanical watches slowly slowed down. It was not until 2000 that it was resurrected. In the 1990s, there were no watches that would interest us. Some players have expressed opposition to this view. They think that without these watches in the 1990s, there would be no heavyweight hot watch now. So what I want to do today is to show you these important watches from the 90s and supplement the lists made by foreign players (in no particular order).
NO.1 Audemars Piguet Star Wheel
Audemars Piguet star wheel We can see that this watch shows the time by rotating the dial.
Audemars Piguet Star Wheel was launched in 1991. Obviously, this is a special watch without regular hands. The time is displayed by the transparent sapphire dial and the curved scale above the dial. Hours are displayed by three rotating dials. Each dial has 4 numbers, which represents the hour. The 3 dials are exactly 12 hours. The curved scale above the dial represents minutes from 0 to 60, exactly one hour (60 minutes). The three-hour dial rotates clockwise around the center of the dial, and each dial rotates on its own. So you can see the time by the number on the hour dial and the minute on the curved scale. The name Star Wheel also properly reflects this kind of planetary rotation and revolution time indication method.
The display mode of Audemars Piguet’s star wheel. The watch currently using this time indication method is Urwerk (and domain).
The reason this watch is on the list is that the watch works too far ahead. The watches currently using this time indication method are Urwerk (and domain). Any experienced watch enthusiast will know Urwerk’s expensive prices and cool planetary operation. You know, more than 20 years ago, Audemars Piguet has begun using this mode of operation. Today, Audemars Piguet Star Wheel still maintains a good value. At auction, it can have a price of RMB 60,000 and 70,000. I think a large part of this is due to the 36mm caliber of this watch (which can be worn Shot).
NO.2 IWC Doppelchrono
IWC pilot chronograph
If you think the name Doppelchrono is unfamiliar, I will be familiar with another name. IWC chronograph. I am convinced by the invention of the IWC chronograph. Because without the invention of IWC, many of us would not be able to play the chronograph. The chronograph hand was once a major complication in the watch. It was better than the perpetual calendar and tourbillon. It was unattainable. Until the advent of IWC chronograph. IWC’s chronograph is invented by Richard Habring (Senior players should know Habring’s later independent brand). It is directly based on the most common 7750 movement, and designed a chase timing module. The chase timing function is controlled by two cams. The chase chronograph pulled down the altar.
IWC Chase Chronograph is transformed from 7750, senior players can easily see the strong 7750 features on this movement.
The IWC chronograph we see in IWC stores is the fruit of this invention. As we can see, the public price is only 80,000 or 90,000. So many people can buy and play.
NO.3 IWC Il Destriero Scafusia Grand Complication
Similarly, if I change my name, you will know which watch it is. IWC is a large and complex watch launched to celebrate the 125th anniversary of IWC. At that time, the wave of quartz watches had just passed and mechanical watches had not slowed down. There were no big complicated watches at all. The IWC was one of the most complicated watches at the time. Including chasing needles, three questions, perpetual calendar and so on. The amazing thing about IWC is not only its complexity, but also another important reason is that such a complex watch was transformed with the ETA7750 movement. Several masters, including Kurt Klaus (the famous perpetual calendar created by IWC) and Richard Habring (mentioned above), performed extensive operations on the most common 7750 chronograph movement, and finally created the most complicated watch at the time. IWC.
The IWC is also transformed through 7750.
If anyone denigrates the ETA movement, saying that the ETA movement is not good, you can just go back and say ‘War Horse is 7750’ in one sentence. Do you convince?
NO.4 Alain Silberstein Krono Saphir
Alain Silberstein Krono Saphir uses a transparent sapphire case, we can see that the case is transparent.
I don’t know this watch, it was issued by foreign players. The significance of this watch is that in 1993, it was the first time it used a transparent sapphire case. We can see that the case of the watch is transparent. Watches with transparent sapphire cases are now super luxury watches in the horological world and are very valuable. Richard Mille and Hublot have launched watches with sapphire transparent cases. This watch is their ‘originator’.
NO.5 Lange 1
The classic layout of the Lange 1 has never changed since its birth.
The Lange 1 only changes in size. The 38.5 mm Lange January phase and the 41 mm Lange January phase can be distinguished by size.
Maybe some players don’t know that the Lange 1 which is so popular today is actually born in 1994. It was admirable to design such a unique and perfectly proportioned watch in 1994. The perfect design of the Lange 1 makes this watch more than 20 years later, except for the size, the appearance of the watch has not changed. With a coordinated dial, luxurious movement decoration, and good technical configuration, the Lange 1 can be said to be one of the most perfect watches of our time. Another reason Lange 1 is on the list. The Lange 1 once again led German luxury watches back out of the game, allowing German watches to return to the ranks of world-class watches.
NO.6 Omega coaxial escapement
The first Omega coaxial escapement watch, the coaxial escapement version fly.
Coaxial escapement is Omega’s unique technical configuration, and it is the only new mass-production escapement in addition to the traditional lever escapement. Today, in addition to the traditional manual winding chronograph movement of the Moon to the Speedmaster, most other watches have been used coaxial escapement (except for individual quartz watches). Many players know that the Omega coaxial escapement was invented by George Daniels. George Daniels invented the coaxial escapement in 1974. After several bumps against the wall, it was eventually used by Omega. The first practical launch of the Omega coaxial escapement was in 1999. Omega applied coaxial escapement on a saucer. This disc, numbered 000, was given to George Daniels as a gift.
This disc, numbered 000, was given to George Daniels as a gift.
The significance of the coaxial escapement is that people have always believed that the lever escapement is the most suitable escapement, but the coaxial escapement breaks this conclusion. The coaxial escapement has not only been mass-produced, but it has developed to the point where it has become coaxial. After continuous improvement, it has matured and reached the beginning of design, reducing the friction during escapement operation, improving the escapement operation efficiency, and reducing the need for lubrication. Omega is able to mass-produce the coaxial escapement and develop it to where it is today.
NO.7 Tissot T-Touch
I don’t think anyone would have thought at first that Tissot would be on the list. But look at the current trend of touch screen smart watches, you will find that Tissot T-Touch is indeed one step ahead. T-Touch was very hot for a while, and many people bought it. This watch was really cool at the time, with hands and LCD screen. Touching the different positions of the watch glass, the watch hands will automatically rotate, displaying pressure, altitude, compass and other functions, which is very fun. The watch looked very technological, it was amazing at the time, and the price was very popular.
Tissot’s T-Touch touch screen will have a significant impact on future watches.
Tissot T-Touch was launched in 1999. Foreign enthusiasts agree that this watch can be regarded as the ‘originator’ of smart watches now. I agree.
NO.8 Seiko Spring Drive
Spring Drive Edition GS Manual 8 Day Chain
Foreign players have listed Seiko Spring Drive as a major revolutionary watch in the 1990s. I do n’t quite agree with it, because Seiko Spring Drive is the same as the Omega coaxial escapement, which is an exclusive technology of a certain brand, but Omega completely has the coaxial escape of Phuket Vertical and large-scale mass production, and widely accepted and recognized. In contrast, although Seiko Spring Drive has been successfully developed and the effect has been achieved, it has not become a ‘trump card’ for Seiko. It is still a relatively small niche. Most players buy 9S instead of 9R for GS. But since people brought up Spring Drive, I put it up.
The Spring Drive version of the GS manual 8-day chain movement is exquisite, and the splint shape on the upper right is considered to be the moral of Mount Fuji.
Seiko Spring Drive is known as the ‘quiet revolution’ (because the escapement and balance wheel are replaced with electronically controlled flywheels, the watch does not have a ‘tick’ sound, and the second hand does not shake). Spring Drive is a mechanical and quartz hybrid Movement. Winding mechanically, mechanically ‘generating electricity’ and then controlling the electronic circuit. When the electronic watch is used to control the movement of the watch, some people say that Spring Drive is like a ‘constant speed cruise’ on the car. It is true. Set a travel time accuracy, and then let the electronic circuit control the travel time accuracy of the watch within this accuracy range. Spring Drive is technically without any problems. The problem is that its semi-mechanical and semi-electronic movement has not been widely recognized. Many players are more concerned that it is not a pure mechanical watch, so they will buy a purely mechanical 9S series GS. .
NO.9 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph New 26470
There was no Royal Oak offshore in the original discussion. I added Royal Oak Offshore to this list. I replaced the Vianney Halter in the list with the Royal Oak offshore type. The reason is that from the popular trend and watch wear trend, the offshore type is more significant.
Various versions of 26470
Royal Oak Offshore was launched in 1992. Now the Royal Oak Offshore has been covered in luxury sports watches. If there was no offshore type in that year, Audemars Piguet alone would not be as hot as it is today. I once saw in a western interview that when Audemars Piguet first launched the offshore model, Jero Zunda’s wife was shocked, and she never expected that Audemars Piguet would change his husband’s work like this. But the facts say everything, bigger, stronger and more sporty offshore models have dominated the world of luxury sports watches. And we can see that whenever Audemars Piguet has new technology, new materials and new concepts, it will be used in the offshore type first. The change from the Royal Oak to the Royal Oak Offshore has also led to the change in the fashion trend of luxury sports watches. Again, ‘play Audemars Piguet, play Royal Oak and play offshore.’